Dressmaking

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Pattern Review McCall’s7862

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Pattern Description: Stated as an easy pattern. It flares from a faced neck band and includes side seam pockets. Raglan sleeves with 3 styles. Two hemline styles.

Pattern Sizing:A5 (6-8-10-12-14)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I changed the pattern to suit me and the fabric design. So I cut view C with A sleeves. I also lengthened it and straightened the hem. I also omitted the eyelets and trim.

Were the instructions easy to follow?I found them clear enough for me.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I love the simple shape and the faced hemline as it ensures the shape of the dress.

Fabric Used: A cotton print from India I needed to use.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Because the fabric is lovely design wise it is very see through. So I have lined the body of the dress with a silk chiffon I already had. I am glad I did as it makes the whole garment hang so much better.

I plan to sew this again in perhaps a more substantial fabric. And if you are looking for a simple design which will be easy to wear this is your dress pattern.

Conclusion: I am pleased with the final dress, there are always a few errors but I can live with them and do not draw attention to them!

There are more reviews of this dress pattern on https://sewing.patternreview.com/ always a good place to look for other makers and their thoughts. Enjoy your sewing and be creative!

New Look 6545

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Ever since the Great British Sewing Bee featured a zipped up bomber jacket as its first challenge a series or two ago, I wanted such a jacket! In fact have wanted one since the 70’s, so better get a crack on I thought.

It’s all matchy matchy

Here is my version. All went well, only had to get the fashion fabric and ribbing. I found a lovely fine wale needle cord from Minerva Crafts. I had both the separating zip and the lining, silk from India bought on holiday so all sorted and ready to go.

My only frustration was I chose a cuff ribbing as opposed to tubular rib which is wider. So when it came to attaching the bottom rib to the jacket body and lining, I had raw edges to deal with as I had not thought it through and so had not attached the facing the neatest way. Never mind once on it doesn’t matter just looks a bit untidy on the inside.

My conclusion to this project is I am going to make another, more fabric in the stash! Also I do not know how those sewers got this together in 4 hours or so!

Featured

The Aisling Blouse

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Pretty square neck

Flattering shape.

Add your own sparkly buttons.

Gathered cuffs

Ready to go!

This is my take on the Aisling Blouse from Jennifer Lauren .

https://jenniferlaurenhandmade.store/product/the-aisling-blouse/

This pattern company is a first for me. I have always used the big four or five pattern companies, only because they were the only ones available from shops, certainly before the internet! When the internet happened I stubbornly stuck with those names I knew!

These are the differences I found in my new sewing adventure!

First I must point out this pattern was included, along with two others, in The Simply Sewing (issue eighty) magazine. Given that I will use two of the three patterns this was a very good purchase given the cost of dressmaking patterns

https://www.gathered.how/magazines-simply-sewing/

Positives

  • Detailed photo on the package and multi sized.
  • Strong pattern paper.
  • Plenty of extra advice regarding measurements with imperial and metric used.
  • Dressmaking terms avoided, step by step guidance.

Negatives

  • Missed the extra marking points for example at the sleeve insertion stage.
  • The thicker paper meant you could not place the pattern so easily.
  • I found the sleeve notches on sleeve and body piece did not match.
  • A small point but you are advised to press the collar for example then push out the corners which makes it more awkward. Also why mark the button placement so early on in the process? It can be done when the top is complete ensuring perfect placement.

In summary I enjoyed the make and am looking forward to wearing it.

Lesson Learned

I will try very hard now to be more adventurous and try new designers and pattern makers!

Nip and a tuck!

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So chuffed with myself for actually doing some dressmaking felt inspired to show it off!  Not much but its a start back on the dressmaking trail.  Should be thinking about Christmas sewing but hey ho, there is nowhere to go just at the mo so making the most!

Hope you like my effort here, sewing therapy is a great thing!

Simplicity 8454, lovely pattern but I had to really squeeze it out, due to raiding my “to make” fabric stash.   As a result the neck binding is not on the bias, still I can live with it or grow my hair to cover up!

 

Sewing for self.

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Before I disappeared for 10 days holiday I got into some selfish sewing. I sewed up a blouse from some very easy to use 100% quilters cotton which printed in Japan. I was very pleased with it as it was firm and so very easy to use. I had spotted it at one of Doughtys road shows recently. See the link below.

https://www.doughtysonline.co.uk/

Why should patch workers and quilters have all the fun stuff I say? I have been noticing more and more in my part of the world, England, that the fabric shops that there are, cater usually for patch workers and quilters rather than dressmakers. I do both types of sewing so that I don’t get stuck in a rut and I have always got something on the go. I do use the internet as a resource, but you cannot beat an actual feel and rummage in a “proper” shop environment don’t you agree?

Now rant over I will show you this blouse! I used McCall’s 6035 from 2010 I have just seen! I do not know if it is still in print, you may have to research if you fancy having a shot at it. There are easy fitting princess seams and sleeves with a small dart at the elbow. There are 4 different views, I chose the 3/4 sleeve version gathered into a cuff.

  • 100 % cotton
  • Princess seams
  • Sleeve Cuff
  • M6035 View B
Envelope M6035

I do hope you find a copy if you feel inspired, I often reuse my patterns over and over and do not realise how old they are! Especially if there are several different versions like this one. At the time of writing there were some available on Amazon and Etsy. Good luck.

McCall’s 7357

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It has been an age since I have last been able to get down to some proper dressmaking, my first true craft love.  Below is the post I did for Pattern Review,

click here    McCall’s 7357

if you would like to see more!

 

 

 

Pattern Description: Loose fitting pullover tops have neckband, self lined yokes, applied tab, side front and side back seams, three piece sleeves shaped hemline and narrow hem

Pattern Sizing: 6-22  I cut size 12 UK

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes I made view C

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but there was a lot of hand sewing and the neck band was awkward.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The seaming gives the top a nice flowing shape and the sleeves hang well. I also like the lined yoke, it makes the top neat and tidy inside.

Fabric Used: A slippery synthetic I bought a few years ago now, and I cannot remember what it was. But it freyed quite badly so overlocking before I fiddled with the neckline was a must.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I didn’t alter the pattern, except to reduce the front opening by 3 inches. I did not see the point in a bigger neck opening, and I didn’t embellish the front as suggested. Neither did I sew the neck band as directed. As my fabric was so temperamental I fused the interfacing onto the fabric before I cut it out, thus I was able to stop it stretching out of shape
I interfaced both the band and the band lining to keep the whole thing stable, on my second attempt. I used a very sheer fusible interfacing, but it was enough to make the fabric easy to cut so it lay along the neck edge cleanly. I over locked the edge of the neck band lining to keep down the bulk, and stitched in the ditch on the machine. I hate hand stitching, though I did hand stitch the sleeve finishes.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I will keep the pattern and sew another in the future, probably in a pretty thin cotton. I recommend it too, but plan your sewing before you start.

Conclusion: A pattern that you can adapt, dress up or down.

Sewing Machine Central

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I have bitten the bullet and decided to have 2 + 1  machines  serviced!  Not one of them has seen the inside of the sewing machine shop since they were bought, and they are all still sewing, or sort of!  I let them go tomorrow and they are promised back in a week, what will I do till then? Use my others I suppose!

 

Singer Hand Machine

Singer Hand Machine

This little and heavy Singer was the machine I first learned  to sew on and it belonged to my mother.  It was made in Glasgow in 1941, and my mother said it went down the underground with her across London during the air raids!  I remember I was always having problems with the tension regulator, but myself and my sister produced many “creations” on it despite it only having  basic straight stitch or lock stitch.

My grand-daughter (8) now wants to try it so hence the Singers’ trip to the service dept.

Second up a bit more sophisticated

Elna Lotus SP

Elna Lotus SP

This machine does in fact belong to a friend of mine, and it in turn  belonged to her mother!   But she likes to take it to workshops as it is relatively smaller and lighter, and does what is required for patchwork and quilting, my friends greatest love.  This Elna has not been serviced either and buzzes along quite satisfactorily!

Last, this Bernina 2000DE overlock or serger.  I saved up for this in the 90’s and am still so happy using it.  It made the world of difference to my dressmaking, the finished garment looking so much neater  and professional looking.

Bernina 2000DE

Bernina 2000DE

I have oversewn so many miles on this and it tackles any fabric shoved at it.  But I think it may be getting noisier, so its off for a bit of TLC.

I don’t know if I am the only sewer who gets attached to their machine?  I guess it’s a bit like car ownership, you remember those happy journeys with your foot on the pedal and a full stash of fabric!

I wonder what is the oldest machine out there which is still sewing without ever having been looked after?

 

McCalls 6658 My Monday Make!

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McCall's M6658

McCall’s M6658

I seem to be having a few pink moments lately, glad its not blue ones!  Am chuffed with my Monday make, just 4 pieces to cut and 5 seams plus hems, what could be easier.  Fleece is so forgiving, I cut the sleeves out separately and forgot to turn over the second, so I had 2 right sleeves, oops!  But I managed to fudge it as my sewing   mentor used to say!

Anyhow this top is right on cue as its rained all day and I waited in for a ” consignment” as I was promised, but of course zilch! So this success cheered me up and will warm me up tomorrow!

Happy sewing everyone

Lindy

Vogue 7055 Sandra Betzina Dress Pattern

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V 7055 Dress V 7055 Neck V 7055 sideV 7055 Pattern CoverI am going to meet up with my sisters soon, in London, and I am getting so excited as we don’t often get the chance to get together with our other halves too!  Felt a new frock was called for and just because it will be October and probably freezing cold, I wanted something bright!  Well frocks in the shops (oh that rhymes!) are so dull in colour, or for the young things so I went scurrying through my wadges of dress patterns and found this vintage little number.  I made my first version in the naughties for work and now I am free I have this version!  

Sandra says to use a moderate stretch knit for this “easy” category dress.  But as ever, I can never find the exact requirements.  So I ordered this lovely VERY stretchy jersey knit from Croft Fabrics UK who have some lovely dress materials to order on line. I recommend them!

Anyhow I decided to self line the front top and use stay tape around the neck edge and along the shoulder seam.  This will prevent the whole affair sagging down to my ankles, and give more substance to the dress.  It also gets around the very stretchiness of the jersey.  At least that is the thought.  The instructions also advise to just turn over the neck edge to finish, I don’t think this looks as nice or “finished” as using self fabric to bias bind the neck edge and then top stitch through. Just me perhaps, but if you have time its worth the extra effort.

I also used a stretchy interfacing on the placket to prevent it sticking out from the line of the dress.  I am so pleased with the result and it is so easy to wear!  No zip to worry about and minimal crease, so I can just throw it in my case and not worry!

I must add, though, that without the overlocker and  coverstitch sewing machines, the whole thing would have been much more complicated.  As it was, the sleeves are inserted flat and there are only 3 pattern pieces, even the front and back are cut out in a single layer so no trying to get the fold of the fabric exactly on line.

Now whats the next thing in my dressmaking list of makes, I have loads of fabric burning holes in me!

New Look 3886

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New Look 3886SUGs  It’s been such a miserable day today I thought I would finish this supposedly easy to make summer top and cheer myself up dreaming of wearing it somewhere nice and warm.  Well it worked, I feel very pleased with myself for not chucking it in after great problems with gathered seams and rubbish hemming with snarled up stitches on the sewing machine.

With camisole top Top FrontEvery time I get seduced by wonderful fabrics; this silk was from India and such a gorgeous colour, and I regret it later.  But I reckon it worked out OK.

In the end I made the hem using the cover lock and used the over lock to neaten the seams.  Getting it to sew without tension problems was a bit of a mare though! A couple of seams had to be ripped out and redone, but it was worth it!

Lucky old me had a camisole top which looks great underneath and I found the bow in my button stash, so I can feel virtuous too now! The silk top must have cost £5 to make, the pattern has been used several times and the silk was so inexpensive in India.